For this month’s newsletter, I thought I’d take us on a Virtual Vacation to Mexico City - because why not? Don’t we all have a little wanderlust right now? I know I do!
Mexico City is an incredibly vibrant city with an incredible contemporary art scene. The city is a must-visit thanks not only to the amazing food and local culture but also the impressive museums, private collectors, and vernacular. At the beginning of this month, the city celebrated a return to normalcy with an Art Week organized by ZⓈONAMACO - Latin America’s preeminent art fair. I am crossing my fingers that I will be able to attend the next iteration of the fair in February 2022.
Without further ado, if you are looking to plan a trip, I’ve done some of the heavy liftings for you…
🌊 Deep Dive: What to See in Mexico City
While the below list is far from comprehensive, I’ve highlighted some of my favorite galleries, museums, and places not to miss on your next visit. (This group is also organized roughly by neighborhood, it is a HUGE city after all.)
Kurimanzutto: Contemporary Gallery in San Miguel Chapultepec
Kurimanzutto presents amazing, ambitious projects in a killer space. They also have a phenomenal bookstore at the front of the space. However, if you can’t make it to Mexico, the gallery has a space on the Upper East Side in NYC as well as a summer space in East Hampton - if you visit say hi to Abby, she is the best! (Hi Abby!)
Casa Gilardi: Arichtecture in San Miguel Chapultepec
This private home tour is a must-see. Plus they display the art the owner lived within the space.
You must make a reservation in advance* it is a private home, and payment is due in cash after the tour.
Casa Luis Barragán: Architecture in Miguel Hidalgo
Another residence filled with art to visit. This home of the famous architect that defined the vernacular you’ll see all over the city collected and displayed art in his home, which is occasionally rotated out and replaced with a contemporary selection. (Though not everyone approves of the swap, I am personally a huge fan of when this happens as it creates an entirely new dialogue in a historical space!)
Museo Jumex: Museum in Miguel Hidalgo
This building holds and displays the private art collection of the Jumex juice-brand family and is open to the public. The collection is ultra-contemporary with rotating exhibitions. The building is a David Chipperfield designed marvel and one of my favorite parts is the Martin Creed marble floor installation in the basement.
Soumaya Museum: Museum in Miguel Hidalgo
Another private collection open to the public is right next door to Jumex is the collection of Carlos Slim in the Soumaya Museum. Also an architectural marvel. The space is extensive, to say the least, and holds everything from ancient porcelain to Impressionist paintings. As a contemporary enthusiast, I prefer the Jumex but recommend following the space to the top which boasts an insanely impressive collection of Rodin sculptures.
Morán Morán: Contemporary Gallery in Polanco
Really excited to visit this brand new space for the Los Angeles-based gallery.
Gaga: Cotemporary Gallery in Condesa
Considered one of the coolest galleries in the city. If you don’t believe me, maybe this article will convince you. The space will now also serve as a satellite space for the X Museum - so really looking forward to seeing how the programming develops!
Galería Mascota: Contemporary Gallery in Condesa
Showing everything from ultra-contemporary art to mid-century modern furniture, this gallery always has something interesting to see.
Karen Huber: Contemporary Gallery in Roma/Juárez
The gallery program focuses primarily on painting, and how artists are using and creating contemporary innovations with the medium.
OMR: Contemporary Gallery in Roma
Founded in 1983, OMR is one of the original contemporary galleries in the city and presents cutting-edge work in a beautiful space to this day.
Palacio de Bellas Artes: Museum in Centro
Though not contemporary, would be remiss not to mention this beautiful, iconic building in the center of the city that features mural work by Diego Rivera.
Casa Azul (Frida Kahlo Museum): Museum in Coyoacán
House of the inimitable Frida Kahlo. Super, super touristy so highly recommend going right when it opens!
😋 Bonus Reccomendation: Lunch at Contramar, Roma Norte
This spot in Roma Norte is only open for lunch but it is a lot of fun. Amazing seafood, ceviche, and people watching - and put your feet up after some art.
💸 Advisory Picks: Artists from Mexico
Again, far from comprehensive, but thought I would splotlight a few artists from the beautiful country that is Mexico.
Bosco Sodi b. 1970, Mexico City, Mexico
I am really quite obsessed with all things Bosco Sodi does. I was first introduced to his work when working at Kasmin Gallery and then again when placing a wall piece of his with a client.
Sodi works with clay as his primary medium, exploring the traditional material in incredibly thought-provoking ways.
This month, enacted over a single day on May 23, 2021, his most recent project, Tabula Rasa invited park-goers to take home clay sculptures with seeds embedded in them and plat them. The act prompted an incredibly beautiful sentiment of rebirth and community as the little sculptures literally live in the homes of fellow New Yorkers. More on the work here.
Also — while I’m dying to get back to Mexico City proper, my next pit stop will be Oaxaca where Bosco Sodi has an incredible studio/foundation called Casa Wabi, designed by an always-favorite architect, Tadao Ando.
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Jose Dávila, b. 1974, Guadalajara, Mexico
Working with architectural elements as well as photographs, I am always mesmerized by Davila’s references to his surroundings and (art) history.
His sculptures often involve carefully situated concrete and natural forms suspended by rachet straps and take on a much more imposing form than his more subtle photographic works which reference and reinterpret artworks from art history.
Though quite different aesthetically both bodies of work shift the emphasis to the often neglected element of negative space.
Gabriel Orozco, b. 1962, Xalapa, Mexico
Simultaneously a prankster and highly conceptual artist, Orozco also makes really beautiful paintings.
A favorite work of his called “orroxxo” took place during ZONAMACO in 2017 wherein he created a fully functioning OXXO store inside the Kurimanzutto gallery space, altering 3,000+ products from chip bags to beer cans to include his signature red, gold, and blue circles.
Minerva Cuevas, b. 1975, Mexico City, Mexico
Obsessed with corporations and food production, Cuevas shines a light on the dark side of consumerism through carefully consider and thoughtful paintings, sculptures, and installations.
👋 Parting Words…
I feel like I barely scratched the surface of the amazing city that is CDMX - if you are visiting and want some additional recommendations, please reach out. Also, if you have suggestions of things to do and see I’d LOVE to hear them! Until next time…
XX, B